london belongs to me: De Marco – Ice-Cream Paradise in Formica

July 05, 2005

De Marco – Ice-Cream Paradise in Formica

De Marco, Junction Road N19

An italian enclave just over the road from Archway station, on an interesting wedge-shaped plot uniformly fitted out in lovely formica, with a fast turnover of wisecracking and/or demented clientele, and run by a prizewinning ice-cream dynasty...

The current proprietor is a third-generation member of the same extended family who have been running the establishment since it opened over 60 years ago. Business is "up and down" these days -" their biggest selling-point used to be their ice-cream, which is still home-made today (and delicious, I might add). The ice-cream isn't so much in demand these days (although there is still a serving window onto the street, adorned with the poignant notice Would you like any "Desserts"). But they still proudly display on the walls a certificate from the Ice Cream Alliance for the Diploma of Merit won in 1957, along with photographs of the trophy and of the winning entry alongside the circular mirrors that adorn the interior.

I am told, proudly (and reassuringly) that despite the newcomer caffs springing up all around, they have no plans to 'renovate': "We try to keep it just as it was -" just add a few things, a new sign maybe...". The whole caff is beautifully decked out in twotone floral-pattern formica, a light colour below, a rich orange on the upper walls. A gigantic illuminated yellow menu covers a whole wall.

Pay them a visit, soak up the ambiance, support this living classic, and don't forget to ask for ice cream.