As if to totally undermine that last haughty post, and to show that I appreciate good writing wheresoever it may be found, I'd like to salute the Guardian's food writer Matthew Fort who I believe, properly cultivated, has it within him to become a culinary Mr Agreeable.
This Saturday he takes a break from his punishing schedule to review the food on offer at Heathrow Terminal Two. I thought this bit was great : (on Caffe Nero) The coffee was thin and bitter as gall. The cake managed to unite two conflicting qualities : it was dry and sickly, and it had a disturbing aftertaste. It took me a little time to work out that its Proustian resonance was that of baby's sick. My critical apparatus rebelled. 1/20.
I think he should follow up with a tour of really ruff greasy caffs and fast food joints - that would stretch his writing skills and the resulting stream of adjective-rich, gustatorily precise disdain would be far more entertaining than endless poshnosh reviews. Could be a companion volume to Simon R's next book after [TBA] - 'The Pret Years' ;)
Posted by robin at April 3, 2004 11:49 PM
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